A living Roman palace by the Adriatic
Split is unlike anywhere else on the Mediterranean: a vibrant seaside city whose old town is not merely near an ancient monument but built inside one. Seventeen centuries ago the Roman emperor Diocletian built himself a vast waterfront palace here for his retirement, and the people of Split simply moved in and never left. Today its marble lanes are full of cafes, shops, and homes, a UNESCO World Heritage site you live and dine within rather than just visit.
For older travelers, Split has a happy shape. The palace old town and the palm-lined Riva promenade beside it are flat and easy, made for unhurried wandering and long, seated coffees by the harbor. The few climbs, the Cathedral bell tower, the heights of Marjan hill, are entirely optional. And because Split is the ferry hub of Dalmatia, the loveliest islands and waterfalls are easy, flat, seated day trips away.
Add the warmth of the Adriatic, excellent seafood, and prices well below Italy or France, and Split makes a relaxed, rewarding base for a few days or a whole coastal holiday. Plan around the terrain, which we cover next, and it is a delight.
Split also has an energy that sets it apart from a museum-piece old town. This is a real, working city of some 180,000 people, so alongside the Roman splendor you get bustling markets, a lively cafe culture, and locals going about their day among the ancient stones. That mix of ancient and alive is much of its charm, and it means good food, good coffee, and good value are never far away, even in the busy heart of the palace.
Split rewards a gentle, well-planned trip. Enjoy the flat palace lanes and the Riva on the level, treat the bell tower and Marjan's heights as optional, and use Split as a comfortable base for flat, seated day trips to the islands, Krka's waterfalls, and Trogir. Base on or near the Riva, visit in late spring or early fall, and two or three days here are a joy.
A flat old town, with the climbs left optional
The most useful thing to understand about Split is that its pleasures are overwhelmingly on the flat. Diocletian's Palace, the beating heart of the city, is a warren of level marble streets and squares, and the Riva promenade that runs along the harbor beside it is wide, smooth, and easy. You can spend days here, exploring the old town, dining by the water, and catching boats to the islands, with almost no climbing at all.
Where the effort comes is entirely optional. The Cathedral's bell tower is a steep, narrow climb rewarded by a fine view, skip it and enjoy the square below. Marjan hill, the green park on the peninsula, rises in stepped paths, but you can drive or taxi partway and keep to the gentle sections, or simply walk its level seaside base. Cobbles and worn marble can be slick, so wear grippy shoes, but with the climbs treated as choices, Split is a genuinely easy city.
The best things to do in Split, palace to islands
Getting around Split: walk the old town, sail the coast
- Walk the flat old town - The palace lanes and the Riva promenade are level and compact, so nearly all your sightseeing is an easy, atmospheric walk. This is where Split shines.
- Ferries and catamarans - Split's harbor is the gateway to Dalmatia. Flat, comfortable catamarans and car ferries reach Hvar, Brač, Vis, and more, a scenic, seated way to see the islands and return the same day.
- Buses and taxis - Local buses and cheap taxis or rideshares link the old town with the beaches, the bus station, and the airport. The center itself is pedestrian, so you will walk once you arrive.
- Airport transfer - Split airport is about 15 miles west near Trogir. An airport bus, shuttle, or taxi reaches the old town in 30 to 40 minutes; taxis and pre-booked transfers are the easiest with luggage.
- No car needed - You do not need a car in Split, and driving into the pedestrian old town is not possible. Day trips by boat, bus, or small-group tour are easier and let you enjoy the scenery.
Where to stay in Split: palace romance or Riva ease
Inside the palace and old town - atmospheric, with worn stone
Sleeping within Diocletian's Palace is magical, stepping out into 1,700-year-old lanes, but expect worn marble, the odd step, and no cars to your door. Beautiful and central; confirm luggage access and whether there is an elevator.
The Riva and Varoš - central, flat, and easy
Along and just behind the palm-lined Riva promenade, and in the old fishermen's quarter of Varoš just west, you are on flat ground steps from the harbor, the old town, and the ferry port. The easiest, most convenient base for older travelers.
Bačvice and Firule - quiet, seaside comfort
East of the center near Split's sandy Bačvice beach, these calmer residential areas offer modern hotels, a flat seaside promenade, and an easy walk or short taxi into the old town. A restful choice with a touch of the beach.
Where to eat in Split: relaxed, senior-friendly dining
Dalmatian food is simple, fresh, and made for a relaxed pace: grilled fish and seafood straight off the boats, black risotto, cured ham and sheep's cheese from the islands, and olive oil and wine from the hills. Eating in Split is a gentle pleasure, long lunches by the water and unhurried dinners in the palace lanes, and it suits older travelers who like to linger.
A few pointers. The old town's marble squares are lined with atmospheric restaurants and konobas (traditional taverns); for better value and a local feel, wander a lane or two off the main squares or into the Varoš quarter. Seafood is sold by weight, so check the price before ordering, and a mixed fried-fish or grilled platter is an easy way to share. Try the local Dalmatian wines, the reds from the islands are excellent, and finish with a coffee on the Riva as the evening promenade fills. Tap water is safe and good, and a small tip of around 10 percent is appreciated for good service.
When to go to Split, and how long to stay
Late spring (May to June) and early fall (September to early October) are the sweet spots: warm, sunny days, swimmable sea, and the islands and waterfalls at their best, without the crush and heat of high summer. July and August are hot and very busy, when the old town and the ferries fill with crowds, though the long light and warm sea have their appeal. Winters are mild but quiet, with reduced island ferries and many seasonal places closed.
Two full days cover Split's old town and Riva at a gentle pace; three or four let you add flat, seated day trips, an island such as Hvar or Brač, the Krka waterfalls, or medieval Trogir. Split also makes an ideal first or last base for a wider Dalmatian coast trip, with easy connections up and down the shore and out to the islands.
Split also makes a natural start or finish to a wider Adriatic journey. Comfortable ferries and a scenic coastal road link it south to Dubrovnik, while short flights and buses reach Zagreb, Zadar, and beyond, so it slots easily into a longer trip. Many travelers give Split three or four relaxed nights as their Dalmatian base, then move on down the coast, letting the boats and the buses, rather than a rental car, carry them from one beautiful old town to the next.
Senior travel tips for Split
- Good value - Croatia is noticeably cheaper than Italy or France for meals, wine, and transport, though the popular islands in peak summer can cost more. Off the main squares, prices drop and quality rises.
- Grippy shoes for marble - The palace's ancient marble is beautiful and slick, especially after rain. A cushioned, grippy pair is the most useful thing you can pack.
- Book island boats ahead - In summer, the popular catamarans to Hvar and Brač sell out. Book online a day or two ahead, and prefer the faster catamarans for a comfortable, seated crossing.
- Beat the crowds - Cruise ships and tours pack the palace midday. Explore the old town early or in the evening when it is cooler and quieter, and save midday for a long, shaded lunch.
- Stay connected - An EU or global eSIM keeps maps, ferry schedules, and rideshare apps working. Croatia now uses the euro, so no currency change is needed within the eurozone.
What travelers say about Split: our review roundup
We read recent traveler reviews across TripAdvisor, the Rick Steves forum, Reddit, travel forums, and expert travel publications, and summarized what senior travelers keep mentioning about Split.
3 days in Split: palace, promenade, and islands
Base on or near the flat Riva, do your wandering in the level palace old town and along the promenade, treat the bell tower and Marjan's heights as optional, and use Split's ferries for a flat, seated island or waterfall day. Explore the old town early or late to beat the midday crowds.
Day 1 - Diocletian's Palace and the Riva
Wander the marble lanes and squares of the living Roman palace, see the Peristyle and the Cathedral, then settle on the palm-lined Riva for a long lunch and an easy afternoon by the harbor.
Day 2 - An island escape
Take an easy catamaran to chic Hvar or the beach island of Brač for a flat, scenic day on the water, a seaside lunch, and a gentle stroll, then return to Split in the evening.
Day 3 - Krka waterfalls or Trogir
Join a small-group tour or drive to the Krka waterfalls, exploring on flat boardwalks, or take the short trip to the storybook UNESCO town of Trogir. Either makes a relaxed, seated day out.
Beyond Split: islands, waterfalls, and old towns
Split is the gateway to Dalmatia, and its best day trips are gloriously easy, flat, seated days on the water or on boardwalks through green parks. Ferries and catamarans leave right from the harbor, and small-group tours handle the waterfalls and towns inland, so you can enjoy the scenery without the driving.
Because so many of these are reached by flat, comfortable boats and boardwalks, they are ideal for older travelers who want the scenery without the strain. Choose an island and a waterfall day over a longer stay, and Dalmatia unfolds at an easy, beautiful pace.
Getting to Split
Split's airport (code SPU) sits about 15 miles west of the city near Trogir, and is busy with flights from across Europe in the warmer months, so most American visitors connect through a European hub such as Frankfurt, Munich, London, Vienna, or Zagreb. There are no regular nonstop flights from the US to Split. An airport bus, shuttle, or taxi reaches the old town in 30 to 40 minutes.
Split is also well connected along the coast: comfortable catamarans and ferries link it with Dubrovnik and the islands, and buses and a scenic coastal drive tighten the Dalmatian region into one easy trip. Many travelers pair Split and Dubrovnik into a single, relaxed coastal holiday.
- Book accessible seating and assistance early, aisle seats and extra-legroom rows fill quickly. Call your airline to request early boarding and mobility help, which all major carriers provide at no charge for those who need it.
- Airport to city, Split airport (SPU) is about 15 miles west near Trogir. An airport bus, shuttle, or taxi reaches the old town in 30 to 40 minutes; a pre-booked transfer is easiest with luggage.
- US citizens don't need a visa, Croatia joined the Schengen area in 2023, so the 90-day Schengen rule applies. Your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond your return date.
- Continue along the coast, comfortable ferries and a scenic coastal road link Split with Dubrovnik and the islands, tightening Dalmatia into one easy trip.
Sort your airport transfer before you fly
After a long flight into Split (SPU), out near Trogir, the last thing you want is to wrestle your luggage onto a bus or negotiate at a taxi rank. Arranging your ride into the old town ahead of time is one of the simplest ways to begin your trip calm and in control.
Packing for Split: marble, sun, and the sea
A few well-chosen items make the marble lanes and the island days easier. View deals on items most commonly packed for this destination.