Sicily: Ancient Wonders, Volcanoes, and the Best Food in Italy

A whole world of history, drama, and food on one great island

Sicily sits at the crossroads of the Mediterranean, and 3,000 years of Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards have each left their mark, layer upon glorious layer. The result is one of the richest destinations in Europe: Greek temples better preserved than any in Greece, dazzling golden mosaics, baroque cities of honey-colored stone, an active volcano brooding over the coast, and beaches, islands, and vineyards in between. For a traveler over 50 with a love of history, food, and unhurried days, few places reward you more.

And the food, quite simply, is the best in Italy. Sicily is where the pasta, the seafood, the citrus, the almonds, and the Arab-influenced sweets all come together: arancini and caponata, fresh swordfish, cannoli and cassata, and granita with a warm brioche for breakfast. Every town has its market and its specialties, every meal is generous and affordable, and long, leisurely lunches by the sea are a way of life. Eating your way gently across Sicily is one of the great pleasures of the trip.

The key to enjoying it comfortably is to take Sicily region by region rather than trying to conquer the whole big island at once. Base a few nights in the east, around beautiful hilltop Taormina and lively Catania, for Mount Etna and the Greek theatres, and a few nights in the west, in Palermo, for the markets, mosaics, and Arab-Norman splendor. Link them by an easy train or an internal flight, lean on guided tours for the volcano and the temples, and you will see the best of Sicily at a relaxed, memorable pace.

Getting around a big island without the stress of Sicilian driving

The single most useful thing to understand about Sicily is that it is large and its driving is famously intense, chaotic city traffic, fast rural roads, and difficult parking in the old centers, so most senior travelers are far happier not renting a car. The relaxed alternative is to base in two regions, link them by train or a quick internal flight, and use guided tours for the big out-of-town sights. Between the trains, the tours, and taxis, you can see the whole island without ever taking the wheel.

Base-hopping is the secret to a comfortable Sicily trip. Rather than one hotel and long daily drives, split your stay: several nights in the east, ideally in lovely Taormina with a day or two in Catania, and several nights in the west in Palermo. Each base puts a cluster of great sights within easy reach by train, tour, or short taxi ride, so you unpack just twice and swap hours behind the wheel for long lunches and slow evenings.

The best things to do in Sicily

Getting around Sicily: trains, tours, and two bases

Sicily is large and its driving is intense, so most seniors do best with two bases, trains between them, and guided tours for the big sights. Here is how to see it all without taking the wheel.

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  Trains along the coasts, A scenic coastal railway links the eastern sights, Messina, Taormina, Catania, and Syracuse, and another runs Palermo to Cefalu in the west. Trains are comfortable and cheap, if not always fast, and spare you city traffic and parking. A direct train also connects Catania and Palermo in about three hours; book the faster InterCity services where available.
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  Guided day tours, The easy, relaxing way to reach Mount Etna, the Valley of the Temples, Monreale, and the hill towns is an organized tour that collects you from your hotel and handles the driving, the mountain roads, and the logistics. A vast choice runs from Taormina, Catania, and Palermo; small-group tours give a gentler, more personal pace.
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  Between east and west, To link the two ends of the island, take the direct Catania-Palermo train (about three hours) or a short internal flight between the two airports. Splitting your trip into an eastern base and a western base, rather than long daily drives, is the key to a comfortable Sicily holiday.
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  Taxis & private drivers, For airport transfers, shorter hops, and door-to-door comfort, taxis are the simplest option; agree the fare in advance for longer trips. Hiring a private driver for a day is a comfortable, if pricier, alternative to a group tour, letting you set the pace and stops.
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  Walking the town centers, The best of Taormina, Ortigia, Cefalu, and central Palermo is enjoyed on foot, and their historic cores are largely flat and walkable (Taormina's is level once you are up top). Wear supportive, non-slip shoes for the polished stone and cobbles, and let trains and tours cover the longer distances between towns.

Where to stay in Sicily: an eastern base and a western base

Read before you go: Sicily

A few of our favorite books to bring Sicily to life: one sweeping history, one great novel, one true memoir, and one for the road.

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Best time to visit Sicily

April-June, Our top recommendation

Late spring is Sicily at its most beautiful: warm days of 70-82°F, wildflowers and blossom, a sea warming for a swim, and the fierce summer heat not yet arrived. Everything is open, the light is glorious, and the towns and temples are comfortable to explore. The ideal all-round window for history, food, and the coast alike.

September-October, Equally excellent

Early autumn is a wonderful, gentler time. The sea is at its warmest after summer, the heat eases to a pleasant 75-84°F, the grape and food harvests are in full swing, and the crowds thin. Prices soften and the sites are comfortable to explore. A superb, calmer choice, and a delicious one for food lovers.

Summer (July-August), With care

High summer is very hot, often into the 90s or higher inland, and busy along the coast. It is doable if you plan around it: sightsee in the cool morning and evening, rest and swim through the fierce midday, book ahead, and expect peak prices. The beaches and long light are magnificent, but the interior heat at the temples and Etna is real.

Winter (November-March)

Sicily has a mild, green winter on the coast, gentle at 55-62°F, quiet, and inexpensive, ideal for a history- and food-focused trip without the heat or crowds, though Etna wears snow and some coastal resorts slow down. February brings a highlight: the Almond Blossom Festival at Agrigento, when the Valley of the Temples blooms in pink and white.

Sicily habits: two bases, trains and tours, and long lunches

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  Split your stay into two bases, Do not try to see Sicily from one hotel. Base several nights in the east (Taormina and Catania) and several in the west (Palermo), linked by an easy train or a short flight. You will swap exhausting daily drives for two comfortable homes, each surrounded by great sights within easy reach.
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  Take guided tours for the big sights, Mount Etna, the Valley of the Temples, and Monreale all involve driving and logistics best left to someone else. A small-group tour collects you, handles the roads and the altitude on Etna, and brings the history to life. It is safer, easier, and more rewarding than going it alone.
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  Wear supportive, non-slip shoes, Sicily's old towns are paved in smooth, sometimes slippery lava stone and cobbles, and the temples and theatres have uneven ground and slopes. Comfortable, grippy walking shoes make the towns and ancient sites far easier and safer, and save your knees on Taormina's gentle inclines.
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  Respect the fierce summer sun, Sicily is one of the hottest corners of Europe, and the archaeological sites offer little shade. Visit Etna, the temples, and the towns in the cooler morning and evening, rest through the midday, and carry a hat, sunscreen, and water. On Etna, bring warm layers even in summer, it is cold and windy high up.
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  Eat everything, and eat where locals do, Sicily has arguably the best food in Italy: try arancini, caponata, pasta alla Norma, fresh swordfish, cannoli and cassata, and granita with brioche for breakfast. Every town has its market and specialties. Step a street back from the main squares, follow the locals, and enjoy long, generous, affordable lunches by the sea.
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  Medical care and the basics, Sicily has good hospitals in Palermo, Catania, and the main cities, with English-speaking care available, and pharmacies (green cross) are common. The Europe-wide emergency number is 112. As with any trip abroad, carry travel insurance that covers medical care and evacuation, and bring your medications in their original packaging.

What travelers say about Sicily: our review roundup

We read recent traveler reviews across TripAdvisor, Rick Steves forums, accessible-travel resources, and senior travel publications and summarized what travelers over 50 keep mentioning about Sicily.

A week in Sicily: east and west, at a gentle pace

Days 1-2, Taormina & Mount Etna

Settle into hilltop Taormina: the Greek theatre with its Etna-and-sea view, the pedestrian Corso, and the gardens, all at an easy pace. On the second day, take a guided tour up Mount Etna, by cable car and 4x4 to the high craters, or a gentler lower-slopes tour of lava caves, vineyards, and honey farms.

Days 3-4, Syracuse, Ortigia & the Greek sites

Move down the coast to flat, beautiful Ortigia in Syracuse for a relaxed day of baroque streets, the cathedral, the market, and seafront cafes, plus the great Greek theatre and archaeological park nearby. A gentle, walkable interlude before crossing the island.

Days 5-6, Palermo, Monreale & the markets

Take the train or a short flight west to Palermo. Explore its Arab-Norman palaces, baroque churches, and thrilling street markets on a guided walk, and take a tour up to Monreale for its breathtaking golden mosaics. Evenings of superb Palermitan food and street life.

Day 7, Cefalu or the Valley of the Temples

Finish with a gentle day trip: the seaside town of Cefalu, an easy train from Palermo, for its Norman cathedral, flat old town, and beach, or a guided excursion to the magnificent Valley of the Temples at Agrigento. If you have more days, add both, or a stay in Catania.

Getting to Sicily: two airports and links to the mainland

Sicily has two main airports, Catania (CTA) in the east and Palermo (PMO) in the west, and choosing the one nearest your first base saves a long transfer. There are no nonstop flights from the US, so travelers connect through Rome, Milan, or another European hub such as London, Frankfurt, or Munich, with an easy onward flight of one to two hours. Many visitors pair Sicily with a few days in Rome or Naples first. From either Sicilian airport, a taxi, bus, or pre-booked transfer reaches the city centers and Taormina in 20 minutes to about an hour.

Sicily also connects to the mainland by train and ferry, the train from Naples and Rome is carried across the Strait of Messina by ferry, a memorable if slow journey, and it pairs naturally with a Mediterranean cruise, as ships call at Palermo, Catania, and Messina (the gateway to Taormina). Within the island, the direct Catania-Palermo train or a short internal flight links the two ends. Book flights a few weeks ahead in high season, and pre-book a transfer if you land late or have heavy bags.

Sicily FAQ