Nice & the French Riviera: the Mediterranean at a Gentle Pace

The easiest base on the Riviera, where the train does the touring

The French Riviera, the Cote d'Azur, has a glamorous reputation that can make it sound like a place for the young and the yachting set. The reality for a traveler over 50 is far more welcoming, and it comes down to one happy fact: Nice is one of the flattest, most walkable, best-connected cities on the whole Mediterranean coast. A four-mile seafront promenade runs level along the bay, a modern tram glides through the center, and a coastal train links the string of famous towns so closely that you can see Monaco, medieval Eze, Cannes, and lemon-scented Menton on easy day trips without ever renting a car or climbing a hill.

That is the key to a relaxed Riviera trip: base yourself once in Nice and let the train do the touring. The main coastal railway hugs the shore from Cannes in the west through Nice to Monaco, Menton, and the Italian border, with frequent, inexpensive trains and short hops of ten to thirty minutes between the highlights. You unpack a single time, sleep in the same comfortable bed every night, and step out each morning to a different glamorous town, then come home to Nice for dinner on the promenade. No driving the vertiginous corniche roads, no hunting for parking in Monaco, no packing and repacking.

And Nice itself rewards an unhurried stay. Mornings at the Cours Saleya flower and produce market, long lunches in the ochre lanes of the old town, an afternoon dozing in a striped chair on the Promenade des Anglais watching the impossibly blue sea, all of it is gentle, sunlit, and beautifully paced for travelers who would rather savor a place than conquer it. The climate helps: warm and dry from late spring through early autumn, and mild enough that even the winter months, when Menton stages its famous lemon festival, are pleasant.

Getting around the Riviera by train and tram, not by car

The single most useful thing to understand about a Riviera trip is that you do not need a car, and are usually better off without one. The coast is served by an excellent, cheap train line and, within Nice, by a modern step-free tram, so the classic mistake, renting a car and then wrestling it around Monaco's hills and Nice's one-way lanes, is one you can happily skip. For the great majority of senior travelers, the train and the tram are the backbone of a comfortable Cote d'Azur holiday.

Within Nice, the tram is your friend. Line 1 links the train station and the city center; Line 2 runs underground straight from the airport to the port in about 20 minutes, which makes the arrival transfer wonderfully simple. Trams are modern, step-free, air-conditioned, and cheap, and a single ticket or a day pass covers the tram and the city buses alike. Between the tram, the flat promenade, and the coastal train, you can enjoy the whole Riviera with very little hard walking and no driving at all.

The best things to do in Nice and along the Riviera

Getting around Nice and the Cote d'Azur

The Riviera is built for car-free travel. Between the coastal train, the Nice tram, and the flat promenade, you can see the whole coast with almost no hard walking and no driving.

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  The Nice tram, your city backbone, Two modern, step-free tram lines cover the essentials: Line 1 links Nice-Ville station, Place Massena, and the old town; Line 2 runs from the airport to the port in about 20 minutes. Trams are air-conditioned, frequent, and cheap. A single ticket or a day pass also covers the city buses, and there are reduced senior fares, ask at a machine or the Lignes d'Azur office.
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  The coastal train, for day trips, The TER coastal line is the star: cheap, frequent trains to Monaco, Eze-sur-Mer, Menton, Antibes, and Cannes, most journeys 10 to 35 minutes. Buy open single tickets in a batch and hop on when you please. Nice-Ville and the main stations have lifts; validate paper tickets before boarding.
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  Taxis & the airport tram, Taxis are plentiful but metered and not cheap; agree the fare to outlying spots. For the airport, tram Line 2 is the easy, inexpensive choice (about 20 minutes to the center, step-free), and it spares you the taxi queue. A private transfer is worth it on arrival day if you have heavy bags or limited mobility.
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  Walking, on the flat, Nice's center, promenade, and old town are largely flat and very walkable, which is a real gift on the Riviera. Wear supportive shoes for the old town's cobbles, use the benches along the promenade freely, and save the steep spots (Castle Hill, Eze village) for the lifts and guided minibuses rather than the stairs.
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  Arriving at Nice airport, Nice Cote d'Azur (NCE) is France's third-busiest airport and sits right on the coast, a 20-minute step-free tram ride from the center on Line 2. It has excellent connections across Europe and seasonal nonstops from a few US cities. From the terminal, the tram, a taxi, or a pre-booked transfer all reach the promenade hotels quickly.

Where to stay in Nice: flat, central, and near the tram

Read before you go: the French Riviera

A few of our favorite books to bring the Cote d'Azur to life: one for the social history, one classic novel, one true Jazz Age tale, and one for the road.

As an Amazon Associate, Senior Traveling Guide earns from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.

Best time to visit the French Riviera

May-June, Our top recommendation

Late spring is the Riviera at its finest for senior travelers. The sea has warmed, the gardens are in full bloom, days are gloriously mild at 70-78°F, and the summer crowds and prices have not yet peaked. Long, bright evenings are perfect for a promenade stroll and an alfresco dinner. The best all-round combination of weather, color, and manageable crowds.

September-October, Equally excellent

Early autumn is a golden time: the sea is at its warmest after the summer, the light softens, and the crowds thin as families leave. September stays warm at around 72-80°F, and October cools pleasantly. Prices ease, the cafes are still lively, and the coast feels relaxed. A superb, calmer window to visit.

Summer (July-August), With careful planning

High summer is hot, busy, and expensive, when the whole of France and much of Europe heads for the coast. It is still enjoyable if you plan around it: start early, rest through the midday heat, book hotels and popular restaurants well ahead, and expect peak prices and full trains. The sea and the long evenings are glorious, but the crowds are real.

Winter (November-March)

The Riviera has the mildest winter in France, sunny and gentle at 55-60°F by day, and it is quiet, inexpensive, and lovely for a slow, warm escape. Some beach clubs close, but the museums, gardens, cafes, and coastal train run year round, and February brings two spectacular events: the Nice Carnival and Menton's dazzling Lemon Festival. A wonderful off-season secret for those who dress in layers.

Nice habits: flat routes, batch tickets, and the shade

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  Buy train tickets in batches and validate them, The coastal line uses open single tickets, so buy several at once at Nice-Ville station at the start of your trip and simply take the next train when you feel like it. Stamp paper tickets in the yellow machine on the platform before boarding to avoid a fine. The SNCF Connect app also works well.
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  Wear supportive, non-slip shoes for the old town, Nice's center and promenade are flat and easy, but the old town lanes and some hill villages are cobbled and can be slick. Comfortable, grippy walking shoes make the difference, and let you enjoy the market and the back streets without worrying about your footing.
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  Use the free lifts instead of the stairs, The two steepest highlights, Castle Hill in Nice and the towns of Monaco and Eze, all have free public lifts, escalators, or minibus options that spare you the climb. Ask locally, look for the ascenseur signs, and save your legs; the views are just as good from the top.
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  Respect the midday sun, The Riviera sun is strong from late spring through early autumn. Sightsee in the cooler morning and late afternoon, seek shade or a long lunch through the hottest hours, wear a hat and sunscreen, and carry water. The promenade's benches and the cafes are made for a restorative pause.
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  Eat the local specialties, off the tourist strip, Step a lane or two back from the seafront and the Cours Saleya for the best value and flavor. Try socca (a chickpea pancake), salade nicoise, pissaladiere, and the daube, and enjoy a glass of Provence rose. Your hotel can point you to the neighborhood bistros the locals actually use.
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  Medical care and the basics, France has excellent hospitals, and Nice's are among the best on the coast, with English-speaking care widely available. Pharmacies (green cross) are everywhere for minor needs. The Europe-wide emergency number is 112. As with any international trip, carry travel insurance that covers medical care and repatriation.

What travelers say about Nice: our review roundup

We read recent traveler reviews across TripAdvisor, Rick Steves forums, accessible-travel resources, and senior travel publications and summarized what travelers over 50 keep mentioning about Nice and the Riviera.

4 days in Nice & the Riviera: a gentle, train-based plan

Day 1, Nice at a gentle pace

Ease in with Nice itself. A morning at the Cours Saleya market and a wander through the flat old town lanes, socca for a snack, then the free lift up Castle Hill for the great bay view. Spend the afternoon on the Promenade des Anglais, a slow stroll and a blue chair, and dinner in Vieux Nice.

Day 2, Monaco & Monte-Carlo

A 20-minute train to the principality. Ride the free public lifts up from the port, see the Prince's Palace and the grand casino square, and visit the excellent Oceanographic Museum or the exotic garden. Lunch with a harbor view, then the easy train home for an evening on the promenade.

Day 3, Eze, or Cannes & Antibes

Choose your Riviera flavor: a guided minibus up to medieval Eze and its cliff-top garden for the most spectacular views, or the flat, glamorous towns of Cannes (the Croisette) and Antibes (ramparts and the Picasso Museum), both easy by train. A relaxed half or full day either way.

Day 4, Menton & the Italian border

The gentlest day: a scenic train east to sunny Menton, the warmest, most flower-filled town on the coast, with its lemon groves, seafront, and old town. If you like, ride one stop more to Ventimiglia in Italy for its Friday market. A soft, lovely finish, back in Nice for a last dinner.

Getting to Nice: a coastal airport and trains along the whole Riviera

Nice Cote d'Azur Airport (NCE) sits right on the coast at the edge of the city and is France's third-busiest, with excellent connections across Europe and a growing number of seasonal nonstops from US cities such as New York and Atlanta, typically 8 to 10 hours plus any connection through Paris, London, Frankfurt, or Amsterdam. From the terminal, the step-free tram Line 2 reaches the city center and the port in about 20 minutes, a taxi takes 15 to 20, and a pre-booked private transfer is the easiest option on arrival day if you have heavy bags or limited mobility.

Many travelers reach Nice by train as part of a wider trip, and it is a pleasure. Fast TGV services connect Paris to Nice in about 6 hours, and the local coastal railway then links Nice to every town on the Riviera and across the border into Italy. Trains arrive at Nice-Ville station, a short flat walk or one tram stop from the center. Book longer-distance TGV tickets a few weeks ahead for the best fares, and choose a mid-morning departure so you are not moving with luggage at dawn.

Nice & French Riviera FAQ